MAZZANTI Atelier

Relationship between art and fashion

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After visiting the Mazzanti workroom, I began to think about the designers like Capucci who use the same technique.  The clothing made by the people in that small Tuscan workroom and made by designer Capucci are more than fashion, they are also art

What Capucci attempts to do is more difficult than just making a gown or just making a piece of art, such as a sculpture or a painting; his creations are designed to be worn on a human body, like a walking painting. The uniqueness of his gowns is the fact that he only makes an exclusive original piece; no one else will own the same dress. 

This kind of designing is as much technical as it is creative and beautiful. From sketch to actual construction of a gown, there is a lot to work out. How do those sculptured dresses stay crisp and in their place while being formed around the curvy shape of a woman’s body?  Also, his style can reflect artistic periods of the past. For example, he drew from Ancient Rome with his baroque dress forms and geometric designs reflecting Ancient Greek and Roman precision.

On the visit to the plissé producer in Florence, we were shown the complicated process of designing and shaping the geometric forms. He had actually made a design for Capucci and showed us the complicated process.  He started by showing us the cardboard-like material he uses to make the patterns before they place the fabric between two cardboard pieces.  Then, they place the tightly bound cardboard in a steamer so it can hold its shape.  The cardboard is special because it does not retain heat and only allows the fabric to be shaped by the steam; in this way, he can reuse the cardboard guide more than once. He dreams up all the designs and told us that he studied math in Liceo, which helped him be able to do this sort of work. All in all, it is hard to deny the amount of thought, time, and construction it takes to make a single gown.  It is more like Capucci and the lovely, dedicated people at Mazzanti are designing like an architect and in this way, their fashion designs are closely linked to art.

Sarah Massoud

 

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